St. John’s: A Historic Gateway
The students aboard the Statsraad Lehmkuhl had the opportunity to sail through "The Narrows" in St. John's. This narrow strait leads sailors into a highly sheltered harbor—and to the heart of the city.
"Passing through this strait in St. John's is iconic. For centuries, people have sailed through here when arriving in Newfoundland, through our front door. Not many get to experience entering the city from this side," says Kim Crosbie, interim Director at the Leslie Harris Centre at Memorial University of Newfoundland.
Memorial has been an important partner for UiT The Arctic University of Norway in planning the student course Arctic Future Pathfinders. UiT chartered the sailing ship Statsraad Lehmkuhl in August and September this year to host the course onboard, involving nearly 60 students and 20 instructors.
Originally, the ship was supposed to sail through the Northwest Passage, but on August 9, it became clear that it had to turn back due to ice conditions. The alternative was to conclude the first part of the student course in St. John's, the capital and largest city in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador, located in eastern Canada.
Fishing was long the main industry here, but now oil and gas have taken over, along with trade and tourism.
Discovering "Vinland"
The first humans arrived in North America from Siberia across the Bering Strait about 14,000 years ago, and Newfoundland has been inhabited for a very long time. The oldest traces of the Inuit, who hunted and fished on the ice and along these coasts, are 9,000 years old.
About 1,000 years ago, the first Vikings arrived on the northern side of Newfoundland. The Vikings sailed via the British Isles and Iceland, then to Greenland, where the Norse explorer Leif Erikson grew up. According to the Saga of Erik the Red, Leif Erikson traveled to Norway in 999, and on his return journey to Greenland, he went off course and discovered "Vinland," which today is believed to be Newfoundland.
"In the 1960s, Anne Stine and Helge Ingstad conducted excavations on the northern side of the island. The findings show remains of Norse settlements and strengthen the theory that this was what Leif Erikson called Vinland," says Kevin McAleese, curator at The Rooms museum in St. John's, where the students were given a tour during their visit.
The excavation site—L’Anse aux Meadows—is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Rooms houses an exhibition with artifacts from the excavations, and McAleese has spent much of his career exploring this history. He explains that the Vikings did not stay in L’Anse aux Meadows for more than a couple of decades.
"It turned out that transatlantic trade was not profitable enough to stay, and they also did not get along well with the Indigenous peoples in the area. These were likely reasons why they returned to Greenland," says McAleese.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, ships from other European countries also landed along the coast of Newfoundland.
"The British, French, and Spanish landed in several places along the coast here. When I learned that the students from the course were coming to St. John's, I was glad they had the opportunity to visit us and see this important historical site," says Kim Crosbie.
Collaboration Between Memorial and UiT
Memorial and UiT signed a collaboration agreement in 2014 and have maintained a close partnership since. Among other initiatives, Arctic forums have been organized every other year, alternating between Norway and Canada, bringing together decision-makers and leaders from business and academia to discuss Arctic issues. When the COVID-19 pandemic made it difficult to plan a new forum, the idea arose to participate in the One Ocean Expedition and organize a course aboard the Statsraad Lehmkuhl.
"We saw this as a fantastic opportunity for our students, and we also opened it up to students from across Canada, which was made possible because the Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs provided funding," says Crosbie.
Canada has a coastline of 240,000 kilometers and borders three oceans: the Pacific, Atlantic, and Arctic. Crosbie explains that it is therefore natural for them to contribute to a student course about the Arctic, in the Arctic, where the ocean plays a crucial role. The course has brought together students from 15 different countries and 22 universities, addressing topics such as climate change, ocean management, and Indigenous perspectives.
"Climate change and how we manage the oceans are very important to us. Bringing together young students from around the world to learn about both science and societal issues provides a unique opportunity. We hope these students will become our future leaders in the Arctic," says Crosbie.
"The students have the chance to learn in an international environment and build networks that can last a lifetime," she adds.
Sharing an holistic approach
Both Memorial and UiT take a holistic approach to the Arctic, which is not just about scientific data but also about how climate change affects societies, Indigenous peoples, and governance structures. This has been reflected in the course, which combines scientific and societal issues. The goal is for students to gain a deeper understanding of how the Arctic influences and is influenced by global processes.
"When we talk about the Arctic at our university, we do so with a broad perspective. We include not only natural sciences but also humanities, social sciences, engineering, arts, and an Indigenous perspective. It is important to understand how everything is interconnected," says Crosbie.
More pictures from St. John's (all photos: Karine Nigar Aarskog / UiT):
As for UiT, the Indigenous perspective is central for Memorial, especially considering Canada’s work on truth and reconciliation. The university has, among other initiatives, established a Vice-President for Indigenous Affairs and developed a strategy for Indigenous research.
"We don’t just want to protect Indigenous cultures but embrace and recognize the value they bring. This is embedded in everything we do," Crosbie emphasizes.
Local Impacts of Climate Change
Local communities in Newfoundland and Labrador are also feeling the effects of climate change. Joel Finnis, head of the Department of Geography at Memorial, explains that there is less sea ice, which has consequences for Inuit communities in Labrador that rely on stable sea ice for hunting and transportation. Less sea ice also leads to higher winter temperatures both in the Arctic and further south.
"We have an increased risk of wildfires in our area due to higher temperatures and less precipitation," says Finnis.
When the students arrived in St. John's, there was a wildfire just a few miles from the city, forcing several local communities to evacuate.
"We are also experiencing stronger storms as a result of climate change. For example, Hurricane Fiona in 2022 was the strongest storm ever recorded in Canada," Finnis explains.
The Need for International Collaboration
Crosbie believes that the collaboration between Memorial and UiT is an example of how international partnerships can help address global challenges.
"We share the ocean, and we must think globally. The relationships being built are crucial, not just for the Arctic but for the entire world," she says, adding:
"This is not just a course; it’s an experience that shapes the leaders of tomorrow. And that’s exactly what we need to tackle the challenges in the Arctic and the world."
Memorial University of Newfoundland:
- Founded in 1925 as a teacher training school.
- The only university in Newfoundland and Labrador with four campuses across Newfoundland and Labrador, plus two additional campuses in Canada and England.
- Size: 18,000 students, 2,800 staff, offering over 100-degree programs.
- Main Campus is located in St. John's.
